I fulfilled a long, long time dream of surfing yesterday in Jaco.
Ever since I watched the movie North Shore when I was about 12 years old I have had a
slight obsession and desire to surf.
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0093648/
I've always loved the water and long to be near it.
We set up a lesson with the surfer boyfriend of the lovely woman who ran the hostel we were staying at.
We set out to the side of the beach that has a smaller swell.
Having watched almost every surf movie out there, I already have a pretty good idea of what to do, the tricky part is actually doing it!
I spent most of our time wiping out and getting spun but it was awesome.
I stood up a few times and just that small achievement was awesome.
I of course hoped that I would ride all the way into shore on my first wave but it didn't quite pan out that way. Haha
It was amazing nonetheless.
Randy did very well making it into shore a few times on a nice ride.
It is one of the most difficult things that I have ever tried and loved it, even while I drinking ocean and eating sand.
After a few hours of attempts, we drug ourselves bag to the hostel absolutely exhausted.
Slept good last night that's for sure!
We are now in Manuel Anotonio, another beach down 2 hours south of Jaco.
It is absolutely beautiful here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpGtpHXuNQ0
Tomorrow we will check out the national park where we will see some wildlife. Sloths I hope!
And then snorkel at the beach that is inside the park.
The day after, once our bodies recover from the pain of our surf attempts, we will take the boards out again.
Waves seem smaller and calmer than Jaco so here's hoping!
Pura Vida
Thursday, January 12, 2012
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